Wagah border
I didn’t know that we have a ‘Berlin Wall of Asia’, here, in this part of the continent till I tried to google Wagah border. Not a very cheerful comparison since the Berlin Wall is a closed chapter in history now. A political and historical icon, this ceremonial border, however, continues to attract thousands of visitors from both sides to witness the popular flag lowering ceremony, everyday, at dusk.
Snapshots:
An hour long journey from Amritsar, the drive to Wagah border is picturesque enough to behold many sights and shivers. To me, going to the border meant getting closer to a divided history.
Once you walk past the many security check points; convoluted buildings, barriers and roads mark both sides of the border. The Swarna Jayanthi gate, which is the entry gate of the outpost, commands the magnificent scenery of verdant landscapes. The ceremony starts thirty minutes before the sunset. As a prelude to the ceremony, public address systems on both sides play the most resounding patriotic songs. The BSF jawans encourage women and children to hold the national flag and sprint towards the gates. And what follows next is unimaginable. Women and children dance to the scores of not just patriotic songs but latest Bollywood tracks too. Expect an adrenalin rush and the mood to be palpable. In an electric ambience, the national pride swells with a frenzied people cheering on their country’s soldiers through the squashing parade of their ritual giant-bug. At Wagah Border, the evening with the Retreat ceremony is very colorful and charming. The changing of guards, pageantry and the pomp grabs a large gathering which makes an appealing spectacle. The soldiers are more than 7ft tall if you count the huge fan-shaped headdresses they waggle at each other like peacocks; just inches apart either side of the India-Pakistan border. For 45 minutes every sunset they high kick, stamp, speed march and shout their way through a choreographed routine that ends in the lowering of both flags and the slamming of the border gates. Expect the ride back from Wagah to be silent and reflective as the mind resonates to the melody of the songs like Ae mere pyaare watan tujhpe dil kurbaan!
Watch out: You will be refrained from carrying mobiles, bags and other valuables inside the gates. Leave them in a locker outside the gate or in your car.
How to get there: You can take a taxi or bus to reach Wagah border, which is around 30 kms Amritsar.