Kaapi it!

An exhilarating aroma, creamy golden brown froth, fulsome flavour and a lingering after taste – a steaming cup of filter coffee, nothing like it to refresh and stimulate one’s senses. Oru Kaapi – yes, that’s how coffee enthusiasts (from south India) shout out for this blissful drink. Filter kaapi, a sweet milky coffee made from dark roasted beans is almost a cultural icon in south India. In the book Vendor of Sweets, author R.K. Narayan gives the readers a crash course on how to make honest south Indian filter coffee. On one of his visits to the United States, at a coffee counter, the author was asked: "Black or white?" "Neither," replied Narayan. "I want it brown which ought to be the colour of honest coffee. That's how we make it in South India where devotees of perfection in coffee assemble from all over the world."

Here’s to the Caffeine Kick
If you were to look up the telephone directory for the Mecca of filter coffee in Mumbai, it’s likely that you’d find all listings leading you to Matunga – the bastion of everything south Indian. Called the Mylapore of Mumbai, the sharp aroma of filter coffee wafts through the by-lanes of this bustling locality. Enter Mysore Concerns, a traditional establishment that has remained steady since 1939, that blends authentic filter kaapi for coffee lovers in Mumbai. Srikant Venkatram, the proud proprietor of this coffee citadel, where the coffee aroma has become a landmark in the prime area of King’s Circle, has been in the business for thirty-three years: “We get the raw seeds once a month from an auction in Bangalore. From selecting the seeds to roasting and grinding, everything is a part of the process, here at Mysore Concerns.”
The store blends fresh coffee every day from morning to night to retain the quality and taste of true filter coffee. Seeds like peaberry, plantation and robusta are blended in different proportions and roasted to a certain temperature since colour is an important element in authentic south Indian coffee. “Coffee seeds if under-roasted or over-roasted can be a problem. We take a lot of care in storing the seeds as they can easily absorb moisture,” says Srikant while elaborating on the mechanics of producing a perfect coffee blend. The store also prides itself in supplying fresh ground coffee powder to temples in the vicinity, hotels such as Mysore Café, canteens, marriage contractors and stores across the city. Illustrious south Indian personalities with a penchant for strong filter coffee like R.K.Laxman, Hariharan and IPS/IAS officers are regular coffee shoppers at Mysore Concerns. Srikant believes it is due to this trust and loyalty that Mysore Concerns has withstood the winds of competition.


Brewing art
“What is important is the resulting brew, which is probably the best in Mysore Café. A connoisseur of coffee would go to any length to brew it perfectly,” says Meena, an avid coffee drinker and a regular face at Mysore Café. Brewing coffee is an art which is mastered by practice, according to taste and colour preference. The brew that percolates down is called decoction, which can be strong or light depending on how many spoons of coffee powder is added to the filter. Typically, after pouring back and forth between the davarah (a wide metal saucer with lipped walls) and tumbler (a steel glass), coffee is swirled around gently inside the davarah to cool it and served to the patron. The ambience and aroma at Mysore Café virtually transports you out of Mumbai. “It is the flavour of piping hot filter coffee served traditionally with idlis and masala dosa that attracts me to this place,” says Karan, a young college lad. The café’s long innings, efficient service and consistency in the quality of filter kaapi has held its froth in a sea of latte and frappe. Kaapi, anyone?

Treasure Island

Located in the heart of Kuala Lumpur where the city was founded, is an arts and crafts market which could very well be the final stop of a long walking tour through this splendid city. The Central Market in Kuala Lumpur will say out a loud Selamat Datang! (‘Welcome’ in Malay) to any visitor in typical Malaysian fashion.

This deco market is filled with every imaginable curiosity from old Craven cigarette tin boxes, oil lamps to century-old Nyonya tea sets, charcoal irons and cosmetic accessories. Not only can you purchase items with a genuine local feel but they are price friendly too, although a little bargaining would be rewarding. Situated at the border of Chinatown, bargains galore can be found within the preserved walls of this landmark Central Market. The bazaar boasts colourful interiors with a wide range of shops modeled after traditional houses, each selling crafts representing various Malaysian cultures. One can find charming souvenirs to take home as keep sakes from your travels such as a Kelantanese tea set, antique silver dining ware, jewellery or an authentic Malaysian kite. Choices range from priceless authentic antiques such as hand crafted Burmese doors to modern hand-made crafts like hand painted Chinese clogs so exquisite that they are in fact heritage inspired objects d’art.

No longer a ‘wet market’ selling fresh meat, fish and vegetables, the Central Market now houses more than 130 shops, 30 food outlets, 140 small kiosks, an exhibition corner (Sudut Pameran and an outdoor riverside amphitheatre with cultural performances). Take a walk along the streets with themes such as Malay Street, Straits Chinese, Little India, Jonker Street (named after the famous street in Malacca) and Blue Mansion (named after the heritage building in Penang). Rummage through sari silks, rugs and spice stalls in the heady side-streets of Little India before checking out Sogo's vast range of designer perfumes, home furnishings and electronics. A visit to Kuala Lumpur's bustling Central Market is a must to witness bazaar-style haggling at its best.

As a land of great forests and timber diversity, Malaysia has long been a source of woodcrafts. You can find antique Malay panel carvings or keris dagger handles, Chinese containers and unusual Orang Asli spirit sculptures, as well as moulded walking sticks, kitchen utensils or even decorated scented woods to adorn your home. But a sure-fire eye catcher is the vast display of masks at every corner of the market. Each mask carries a certain character- from the very pensive to a cheery face; you can pick your favourite. Legend has it that the locals hang these masks at the entrance of their homes or on the walls of their homes to ward off the evil spirits.

A dazzling tapestry of Asian traditions, the market is a one-stop shop for everything Malaysian. Malay pottery such as Perak labu sayong (an elegant, gourd-shaped carafe that is used to keep water cool) as well as geluk and belanga (traditional Malay crockery cooking pot), Chinese dragon kiln ceramics or Sarawak tribal motif pottery are all popular. You could also go wild marveling at ingenious traditional weaving skills and products. Local plant fibres and parts from bamboo, rattan, pandan and mengkang leaves are coiled, plaited, twined and woven to produce comely bags, basketry of all kinds, colourful mats or tikar. Shop for a keris (a traditional Malay weapon), wayang kulit(shadow puppet), handicraft, art, traditional costumes and textiles, antiques, pewter more. At the Art Lane, have your portraits sketched by portrait artists or see and learn how Malaysian batik is made and painted. Touch and feel an actual Wau Bulan (traditional Moon Kite from Kelantan).

A trip to Central Market is incomplete if you haven’t bought pewter craft. A notable newer heritage, pewter made from tin is a favourite among tourists. Exquisitely crafted pewter ware is available as beer tankards, goblets, tea and coffee sets, picture frames, clocks vases and other decorative items.

But if you are looking for something truly unique, the traditional wooden blowpipes may well fit the bill. Originally used for hunting by the aborigines, this wood craft is arty enough to make the cut from the jungle to your living room. From a casual tourist to the most serious traveller, this market caters to everyone on a range of budget and choices.

The Blood(y) Biography

Like the monsoon lightning, it's flashing all over the news channels, websites and print media.  A luxury book publishing group has said that it would bring out a special edition of Indian cricket legend Sachin Tendulkar’s biography with its signature page mixed with the batsman’s blood. The signature page will be mixed with Sachin's blood - mixed into the paper pulp so it's a red resin. It is what it is - you will have Sachin's blood on the page.

The blood edition is expected to cost a whopping $75,000 (approx. Rs. 35 lakhs), which, would include unpublished family pictures and the legend's thoughts about his career. Now, there are only two takes on this newest luxury spin! Either you got to be a crazy collector who fancies collecting such rarities for posterity (and pride!). Or the other, a rabble rousing activist who would instantly write this off as a marketing gimmick.

Sachin is and will continue to be the God of Cricket in this part of the sub-continent. But in a country where cricket unifies other Gods like Ram, Allah and Jesus under one roof, it's no surprise then that the limited edition of his biography has eager beavers cashing in on him! Well, a whole chunk of fans and fanatics find this act quite philanthropic, but some voice it as ghastly and stupid. True, on both counts. The fact that the proceeds from the only 10 limited edition copies will go towards Tendulkar's charitable foundation is something to smile about and applaud him for. Agreed that it is a treasured collectible that is symbolic of his life and times. But I have not really known many celebrities to be philanthropic without a real objective in mind. No, am not going to single out this master blaster either. He's as human as you and me. Don't agree? Ok, here's another argument. Why would he not endorse products like Reynolds (which costs min Rs.5) or a Sunfeast (which costs Rs.12 approx) for free. Well, he's squandering his time and energy, so the obvious ROI. So, presumably, his blood doesn't come free either. If it's going to be inked and sold for $75,000 per copy, won't he be man enough to work out his blood(y) economics? The little master may be known for his charitable ways but why 'blood' is the bleeding question?!

The Guardian quoted publisher Kraken Media's chief executive, Mr Karl Fowler saying: "...the key thing here is that Sachin Tendulkar to millions of people is a religious icon. And we thought how, in a publishing form, can you get as close to your god as possible?" Really, how much more are we going to deify a simple human being.

Luxury has just climbed up a new level in the social ladder.  Page 3 regulars, soiree specialists and luxury icons like Vijay Mallya, Queenie Dhody and Kalyani Chawla now have competition!

Gateway to Opulence

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Courtesy: Fendi, Harry Winston

In an MSNBC report last year, The World Bank said that global economy will shrink in 2009 for the first time since World War II. Not just that. Global financial crisis, it seems, was going to make it tougher for poor and developing nations that needed financing. But hold on a second. As far as I recall, I attended more than a dozen press conferences, each one either launching a luxury car or a luxury watch or a line of exotic jewellery! So where did the recession winds come from? Or was it a blink and miss din?

The word, luxe, in India has acquired a whole new connotation. Indians love brands and brands love India. And why not. Take for instance, the sprawling Palladium mall in the heart of Mumbai (though, now, Mumbai has many hearts), which spells class, elegance, style and luxury, all packed with a punch. Be it London’s popular Comedy Store that opened here, which serves up stand-up comedy with a side order of food and drinks or a roster of brands that find way to your closet full of trophies: Paul Smith, Rosenthal, Rohit Bal, Top Shop, Tie Rack, Burberry, MAC- India’s lust for luxe has just about begun.

When L’occitane entered the skincare and body care market in 2006, it was no shocker that the urban population embraced it like lost-love-suddenly-found. And now with its foray into spa and wellness, the bar is only rising. On the other hand, when The Body Shop arrived in India, their target was only the lah-di-dah! But it didn’t take long for the 100 per cent subsidiary of French cosmetics brand L'Oreal to realise that the only way to prosper in the country is to move down the economic pyramid. So adapting to the Darwinian Theory, Body Shop lowered the prices of around 200 of its best-selling items. But that was only a trailer. This year, the cosmetics brand extended the 10-35 per cent price cuts to 600 more products.

Unexpectedly, a decade ago, luxury clients did have an interest in the country, but were clearly put off by its pervasive poverty and an unsophisticated retailing environment populated mainly by small, independent shops. The handful of luxury brands operating in India did so quietly, selling mainly from boutiques located in five-star hotels. There was virtually no other option. But now the tables have turned. Swing by any metropolis and you’ll find yourself enveloped with exclusive brand stores and boutiques all around you. From Villeory & Boch’s romantic bathrooms to chasing Harry Winston’s ‘Talk to Me’ timepiece, it’s about celebrating life in style!

Be it a Chanel lipstick, a YSL belt or Fendi pump shoes, we now want to own products that inspire awe and envy. It’s no surprise then that luxury brand Mont Blanc chose Mumbai’s Taj Mahal Palace and Towers to open its first jewellery salon worldwide. The removal of trade barriers in the Indian economy has boosted the foreign brands to create a niche for them here. The upsurge in Indian households, with their increased purchasing power and more awareness about global market, is another factor that has been encouraging foreign brands to invest in the Indian market. So while India is becoming the beacon of a luxurious future, here’s to Gucci, Givenchy, Piaget, Tiffany, Moschino and others in toe!